Saturday, August 27, 2016

Miata Front Brakes

Time to replace the front calipers, had to replace the rear calipers last year as they were leaking at the parking brake lever seal.


I decided to do the work while still loaded on the trailer for
better ergonomics


















Forgot to paint the calipers so I have to
wait for paint to dry...  (also when trying to free a stuck brake piston one can
push fairly hard with loose C clamp to use the hydraulics to free it but once the piston
moves do not pump the pedal one more time just a bit harder...)



Pressure brake bleeder system will make the bleeding process
far easier

A POX on AutoZone - they gave me the wrong rotors (Then again I should have checked...)
so I had time for the paint to dry as I made a trip to town for the correct ones.
http://www.mossmiata.com/sitegraphics/pages/factory_big_brakes.html

All done and bled - ready for the wheels.  Using a lug nut to hold a wobbly rotor
is a handy trick when trying to bolt the caliper bracket back on.  Also install the new brake
line last so you do not need to worry about stressing the hose.  (I do not like the Miata front
hoses - too short to turn the wheel to full lock when the suspension is unloaded - I thought
I got the wrong parts but I checked old to new side by side and they were the same length.) 

Last brake job of the day - replace the rear brake proportioning valve - much easier to get to
than the pair on the 1800ES - nice Subaru part supplier pointed out I only needed one for
this vehicle - the 1800ES needs two for the dual split circuit braking system on pre-ABS
Volvo's with 4 wheel disk brakes. 

Sunday, May 15, 2016

Added some stub axles - can roll rotisserie outside

Ok this is a good year late but added some stub axles for a trailer and hubs to the rotisserie.  Now I just need to put some tubes in the old tires so I can return the spare to the camper...



Sunday, July 20, 2014

Cross bars for Subaru Outback

I started making a set of cross bars from 3/4 inch EMT - a pool noodle fits over perfectly.  I cut some 1 inch pipe by welding some bolts and nuts to make it easy to adjust.  After making the first one I thought of a better way to make the cross bars using some uni-strut and 1 inch condiut (3/4 inch would have worked but this was going to be a slightly HD version)


I chose to use 1/2 by 2in long carriage bolts that I ground down so it could fit down inside the unistrut.

I may redo the lower brackets but I am quite sure it is plenty sturdy.


Orginal cross bars, unistrut and 1 inch EMT



Orginail mounts

pre fab testing



unistrut with cut/ground down carriage bolts.  The unistrut and EMT was ground down to bare metal for easier weld penetration (less zinc out gassing)

installed




close up of unistrut mounts

front mounts

 

Now I just need to remove the factory cross bars (100 lbs limit - even 1 kayak tied to the bar has broken loose at highway speed)  Note the front and rear bars have different widths between the roof rack mounts.  

Nice thing is the bars do not extend beyond the width of the car mirrors - I cut the 10' EMT in half.  I may make extensions out of 1 1/4 inch conduit.  Next will be to paint the welds and ground off area with high zinc "cold galvanizing compound"  then I will likely paint the bars black.

If you can weld get some unistrut and EMT and make a set of HD cross bars instead of purchasing $100+ sets. 











  

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Sunday, May 25, 2014

Why install a block heater?


Any guesses as to why I just installed a block heater in a car I am not going to drive in the winter?  




Because it was easier than pulling the engine to replace the freeze plug I lost last week.  Luckily if that can be said about a engine failure where a large hike appears in the side of the engine the freeze plug that popped was the freeze plug where the block heater goes.  

So while I had an old one in parts that cane with the ES a new one was easy to obtain with a fresh O ring so I put it in and refilled the antifreeze.  

No leaks, well the radiator cap has a small leak but importantly no leaks in the side of the engine.  The radiator cap can be reseated with vice grips to make it tight.  (This is the radiator cap that says "do not remove" not the pressure cap on the coolant tank)

 

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Saturday, March 15, 2014

Working on a powered bead roller

After searching on the internet I have found many have started with the HF or Eastwood bead roller as the starting point for building a power bead roller.  This is becasue the hand cranked version is hard to use and it still had some flex.



Side supports before welding



Some welds, I made 3 passes most times - got decent penetration 


Welding the 1/4 angle stock is to keep the two parts from moving back and froth.


The back side support -  using scrap steel as much as possible.

 
So I now need to mount the frame to the stand and the remount the shafts so I can place the pulley on the top and mount the low speed drill.  I figured it will have around a max speed of 50 to 60 rpm - might be too slow but I suspose I can always add a larger pulley to the drill.


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Gave up the on the starter

I gave up on the starter - got one of 3 bolts out but my socket extensions could not reach the other two bolts.  So I am just going to have it towed to Don's and let someone put fix it on the lift. 

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Truck doesn't start...

Back a when the snow had drifted a few feet deep I cleaned off the truck and drove it to get it warmed up and keep the battery charged.  I try to do this arround everythree weeks or so - so two weeks ago I went to do the same - no start.  I charge the battery, no start.  I clean the battery terminals - no start - just clicing.  I change the batter terminals - no start (no cranking) - the battery is charge but I try to jump start - no cranking.  With the jummers attached - I short the upper starter solenoid - no crank.


So I look underneath - connections look clean and dry so either the start is dead or the plunger solenoid is stuck - I tap the plunger with a hammer - no start.  Now I need to replace the starter and lets see if that fixes it. 

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Sunday, January 12, 2014

Passenger side "A" pillar base attached to inner rocker


















The base of the passenger side "A" pillar with rusted parts removed.


































Note wavy inner rocker without additional support.






















After first using along section of steel to straighten and stiffen the inner rocker. 


















 another shot of the supported inner rocker

















The first part of "A" pillar replacement

 
















No "in progress" photo's - part welded before grinding.

After grinding (ok not really necessary but still wanted to check penetration and weld quality)  Not pretty but it will never going to be seen once the outer rocker is installed.  Nice to have support for the inner panel.  I know "A" panel support ahead of the inner rocker should not have tab folded up (really down) against the bottom of the inner rocker but I wanted to ensure the support is strong.  I should have folded the support to the inside and drilled out holes for plug welding but I went the easy way - not likely to have someone crawl under and inspect the number of layers of steel.

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Monday, December 23, 2013

Passenger side inner rocker installed


The passenger side rocker prepared for welding in the replacement inner rocker panel. Painted with a weldable self etching primer. 


a 16 gauge joining panel for the passenger side, the hole is to go around the access hole for rust proofing


 The panel clamped and ready for welding.


The panel with a few of the plug welds visible on the back side

  
The 1800's put away for Christmas.  


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