Saturday, March 15, 2014

Working on a powered bead roller

After searching on the internet I have found many have started with the HF or Eastwood bead roller as the starting point for building a power bead roller.  This is becasue the hand cranked version is hard to use and it still had some flex.

Side supports before welding

Some welds, I made 3 passes most times - got decent penetration 

Welding the 1/4 angle stock is to keep the two parts from moving back and froth.

The back side support -  using scrap steel as much as possible.

So I now need to mount the frame to the stand and the remount the shafts so I can place the pulley on the top and mount the low speed drill.  I figured it will have around a max speed of 50 to 60 rpm - might be too slow but I suspose I can always add a larger pulley to the drill.


Gave up the on the starter

I gave up on the starter - got one of 3 bolts out but my socket extensions could not reach the other two bolts.  So I am just going to have it towed to Don's and let someone put fix it on the lift. 


Truck doesn't start...

Back a when the snow had drifted a few feet deep I cleaned off the truck and drove it to get it warmed up and keep the battery charged.  I try to do this arround everythree weeks or so - so two weeks ago I went to do the same - no start.  I charge the battery, no start.  I clean the battery terminals - no start - just clicing.  I change the batter terminals - no start (no cranking) - the battery is charge but I try to jump start - no cranking.  With the jummers attached - I short the upper starter solenoid - no crank.

So I look underneath - connections look clean and dry so either the start is dead or the plunger solenoid is stuck - I tap the plunger with a hammer - no start.  Now I need to replace the starter and lets see if that fixes it. 


Sunday, January 12, 2014

Passenger side "A" pillar base attached to inner rocker

The base of the passenger side "A" pillar with rusted parts removed.

Note wavy inner rocker without additional support.

After first using along section of steel to straighten and stiffen the inner rocker. 

 another shot of the supported inner rocker

The first part of "A" pillar replacement


No "in progress" photo's - part welded before grinding.

After grinding (ok not really necessary but still wanted to check penetration and weld quality)  Not pretty but it will never going to be seen once the outer rocker is installed.  Nice to have support for the inner panel.  I know "A" panel support ahead of the inner rocker should not have tab folded up (really down) against the bottom of the inner rocker but I wanted to ensure the support is strong.  I should have folded the support to the inside and drilled out holes for plug welding but I went the easy way - not likely to have someone crawl under and inspect the number of layers of steel.


Monday, December 23, 2013

Passenger side inner rocker installed

The passenger side rocker prepared for welding in the replacement inner rocker panel. Painted with a weldable self etching primer. 

a 16 gauge joining panel for the passenger side, the hole is to go around the access hole for rust proofing

 The panel clamped and ready for welding.

The panel with a few of the plug welds visible on the back side

The 1800's put away for Christmas.  


Wednesday, December 18, 2013

Driver side inner rocker removed to first crossmember

After many spotwelds cut I finally was able to remove the DS inner rockler panel.

The removed panel now rightside up will be the model for the access holes and floorpan angle.


Good news - frame rail still dry spotless - in primer after 46 years

I opened the passenger side floor and found the passenger side frame rail is dry, hard to see in the light from the LED drop light and covered in grit from cutting open the floor I was plesed to see how clean and dry it is.

better shot of primer from inside of passenger floor pan that was the top of the frame rail

note I left the seat mount nut in place for the replacement passenger side floor

Dad's progress on DS rear floor undercoating removal - the red is primer not rust


Tuesday, December 17, 2013

oh shit

When fliping the car over I heard something move, not good.

It seems the front brackets were shifting and contacting the upper body holes denting the metal opeings.  The bolts were tight but obviously shifting within the bolt holes on the body.

So a quick survey turned up the front swaybar mounting points.

Using some of the scrap 3.5 wide 1/4 inch stock two plates were made to weld to the existing mounting brackets.

I used a thin strp of copper to seperate the welded area from welding the bracket to the car body prior to welding the plate to brackets.

Upgraded brackets now unable to shft and contact the upper body bumper bracket holes as they are supported by the plate under the frame and secured to the body via the front swaybar mounting points.

The rear mounts were still tight and nothing has shifthed.


Look Ma no doors

Removed the doors this morning prior to drilling out spot welds on the inner rockers.


Monday, December 16, 2013

passenger side A piller connection - lower inner rocker seperated

After dropping the driver side floor panel off at a sheet metal shop for re-bending of the rocker flange I finished drilling out the spot welds on the lower side of the passenger side inner rocker.  Now just the top remains for both side.

Next I opened up where the passenger side A pillar meets the rocker panel assembly and noted the shapes for later fabrication.



Working on PS floor

upper floor pan (kick up area) of passenger side of car seperated from inner rocker

Drilling out the spot welds on the passenger side floor and rocker

Driver side "peddle box" hole in front wheel area

Hole in passenger side - under battery box - same spot as "peddle box area" so I suspect it is more related to water accumculation than battery acid as it is on both sides and about the same size.


Sunday, December 15, 2013

Driver side floor removed - many spot welds drilled

Today's progress - driver side floor removed mostly by drilling out spot welds along transmission tunnel and frame rails.

The Harbor Freight spot weld cutter does a great job so long as it has a good centering punched hole.  I have now started to sharpen the tip as it seems to be dulling with use.  For the frame rails I drilled through the floor and cut from the inside as the welds were obscured by rust.  Having a starter hole make the cutter easier to use - but it was mainly required as the cutter is short and the drill chuck interfered with getting a straight shot at a 90 degree angle on the welds because of the frame welds.  I broke several 1/8 inch bits by drilling the holes out (part angle, part hard to drill through the welds).  I have found that just using a good solid punch point is enough to keep the spring loaded tip centered - not worth the time to drill starter holes for most weld.  Now if the area is not flat or against a cured part of the body then it can be helpful.

The floor pan will be replaced and the 3/8 holes used to plug weld the floor pan to the frame.

Also I found what had interested Maggie when removing the floor:

A cat might be a mouser but a dog will pin point where the nest is...
mouse nest in frame rail - mice got access to area through hole in floor pan - I have not stored bird seed in the garage for years so likely long gone by now.