Tuesday, June 29, 2010

A shade tree doesn't help when the heat index is 98



With the heat index topping 98 degrees the shade from the tree was of some benefit but it was a hot day to be changing brake lines.  The front end when smooth - all the old fittings broke loose - I even held off when the service manual recommended the expense of special wrenches to prevent stripping or rounding off the fittings.  (I would have driven straight to Sears just as soon as I began to round of a fitting using an open 2 sided wrench.)  I had no problem loosening and of the fittings or the 8 bleeders.  I hit the fittings with a blast of simple green using a air driven engine cleaning gun, dried it with more air, a short spray of PB Blaster, a little heat from a heat gun then a bit more PB Blaster.  I got things just hot enough to soften the rubberize under coating on the fittings up next to the chassis. 

The only problem I had was one lug nut did not want to move - cross threaded - I broke the stud just using my foot and the tire iron.  This was not good as one of the wheel stud right beside it was already stripped.  Since there was nothing for me to do I continued with the rest of the lines - the rear lines were it better shape than the fronts but I had the SS lines so I replaced them - they were the hardest to break free at the pressure reducing valve but still nothing rounded off.

I pulled the rear disk and looked at the hub - no way for me to remove if like the brake drum/hub on the '67 with a tapered shaft to put on a press.  I thought about drilling or driving the old studs out in place but decided that this was a job for a shop.  I reattached the rear caliper and went onto bleeding the system until new clear fluid came out.   

The bleeding with the pressure tank worked well other than the cap did not fit quite right and just before the 8th bleeder was opened it popped off and sprayed brake fluid all over the engine and fender.  I grabbed the bucket of strong detergent and quickly rinsed the fluid away then followed up with some more soapy water and the hose.

When the job was done I put the three nuts on the rear wheel and slowly drove the car to the shop as few blocks away.  It was one of the best $60 I have spent.

So far the brakes work great - no pulling or dragging - good solid stops.  I have yet to fully test the system but I have the felling that the brakes will easily exceed the friction limits of the tires if I really push it.  The nice thing is no spongy feeling to the system.  Now I just need to get a brake warning switch but more on that later.

Wednesday, June 23, 2010

Lights, washer, alternator light

I started cleaning the garage tonight and found the old washer pump, tank/bottle and mount.  I didn't know if the motor worked and the impeller was not attached and the bottom of the pump was off.  I tried to fix it before but the bottle leaked so in the end I purchased one from ebay and set the broken one aside.

So what do you know - I purchased a car without a washer bottle and pump.  It only took a few minutes to fix the impeller and using a heat gun to warm the plastic so the bottom would snap in.  Then I found some scrap wires with terminal ends - I filled the bottle with some water and touched the wire leads to the battery and it pumped water out.  Of course I need to fix the leaky bottle and mount the mounting basket then run hoses but I will soon have a windshield washer.  I then studied the wiring diagram and owners manual for location of the washer bottle.  I found a yellow wire (more orange and black than yellow) but it is in the right place and when I hooked it up and pushed the button on the dash the motor ran. 

Having figured out the wiring diagram (source page) I also replaced the fuse for the left side marking lights.  Once replaced the lights work and now the instrument panel lights but the ALT light stays on.  I think this is a common problem and not a charging problem (description of problem and solutions).  Good news is almost all the lights work now - still need the licinece plate lamps to get the car ready to pass tech inspection for rallys (of course not having an accurate speedometer is a bigger problem for ralling). 

Next I will try to get the lights on the bumper to work -  then I will work on the corrosion issues issues in the fuse-block (tech article

Note garage is not yet clean enough to get the second 1800 in.

Monday, June 21, 2010

About 400 miles so far on the ES

I have about 400 miles on the ES so far - so far so good.  The only major problem I have found is that it doesn't like to start when hot.  Stopping for a few minutes such as a fill up is no problem.  Leave the car for 20-30 minutes and it won't fire.  Give it another 20 minutes (or open the hood for 10) and it will restart and run fine.  I am going to start reading on the fuel injection system.

The other problem I have noticed is the fuel pump is loud when less than 1/3 tank - by loud I mean it is very noticeable while idling and it can be heard over the rest of the noise at speed. 

I have an order in with iPd for brake lines, new raditaor cap and the correct spark plugs.

Friday, June 18, 2010

Frozen hinge

A common problem with 1800 hoods is the hinges rust and stop moving. Of course it is possible to open the hood but the steel bends. I wanted to make sure Lisbeth didn't have this problem, she did. So off comes the hood - going to need some welding - might need a wire welder - so with some PB Blaster, oil and elbow grease I free the hinge.

Click on image to goto the album - see captions for details.


Tuesday, June 15, 2010

Added another 1800 to the stable

While looking on iPd for parts for the '67 I saw this one.  I couldn't pass it up - I almost drive it from Bellingham WA but thought better of it.  In the end I decided to purchase sight unseen (had a mechanic do buyer inspection).  The truck dropped it off today.




Pre purchase album

Labels: