Saturday, August 21, 2004

*&#$ forgot the heater valve tube

Well I had the heater box installed but I for got to install the capillary tubing for the heater control valve.


So I take the box out, run the capillary tubing in along the core and install the valve in the firewall. See how nice it went in with a new gasket at the firewall.



Now I thought I was finished with the heater box. So I move onto getting some things bolted back on the engine when in a bag labeled as holding engine parts I find I discovered those little spring steel clips that hold the doors closed. So out again comes the heater box. I am beginning to get good at this.

Now I notice that when I assembled the box the capillary tube was crushed. *&%@, however it looks like the internal brass colored tube was intact - I hope that is the one that matters since new valves run about $150. So I splint the 1/8 copper tubing with some 1/4 copper tubing split and then crimped around the damaged capillary tubing. I hope this works or I'll have to remove the heater box for the 4th time now. (1st time to get the box powder coated, 2nd without the valve tubing, 3rd without the spring clips)

Note the nice new gasket for the fresh air intake & for the heater box to the firewall:



Hints for those trying to remove the heater box: Drop the heater control valve. Unbolt the heater box from the firewall, unscrew the freshair intake from the heater box. Slightly cock the upper edge of main heater box and then slide the fresh air plenum towards the battery box (remove battery).



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